“There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.” 萬物都有裂痕。那是光照進來的契機。- Leonard Cohen, “Selected Poem 1956-1958”
Guo Pei: Couture Beyond is devoted to the work of Guo Pei-the only Chinese national designer invites to present collections at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week-and showcases examples of her signature designs created from 2006 up to her Spring 2017 collection. After a decade of designing mass-produced garments Guo Pei launched her atelier Rose Studio in 1997 that today employs nearly 500 artisans to craft her made-to-order and couture pieces. Her theatrical, extravagant creations combine contemporary and ancient aesthetics, production methods and materials to evoke Chinese history and mythology. Rife with symbolism, her avant-grade silhouettes seamlessly fuse present-day desires with pre-republic opulence.
The exhibition begins with significant examples from GUI Pei’s early collections, Samsara (2006), An Amazing Journey in a Childhood Dream (2008), 1002 Nights (2010) and Legend of the Dragon (2012). Featuring intricate embroidery and beading over dramatic silhouettes, these bespoke creations embrace traditional Chinese designs and techniques from the Qing Empire (1644-1912), China’s last imperial dynasty.
The exhibition continues with the spirited collection she produced to launch her collaboration with MAC Cosmetics in 2015 and concludes with pieces from two of her critically lauded Paris Collections: shimmering metallics from Encounter (Fall 2016) and ornate garments inspired by Switzerland’s Cathedral of St. Fallen from Legend (Spring 2017).
Featuring more than forty examples from Guo Pei’s most iconic runway shows, the exhibition providers a comprehensive overview of her evolution as a designer as well as her contribution wares, designed specifically for runway and editorial without concern for wearability, the exhibition includes examples of the elaborate footwear, jewellery and headpieces that she custom designs to complement each look. Her dedication to process, technique and precision rivals even the most renowned couture houses in the world and her critical success reveals the rising importance and influence of fashion practices from outside of the traditional Euro-American centres.